Tenute Rubino > Articles > The territory > Salento, Apulia: lands of great wines

Salento and Apulia, lands of great wines

Apulia is the 'heel' of Italy: a narrow strip of land, washed by two seas, the Ionian and the Adriatic. A branch of West oriented towards the Balkans, Greece and South-Eastern Italy, where the sea unites, rather than separates. A borderland, where everything finds its end and – at the same time –its beginning. By virtue of its destiny and agricultural vocation, Salento is expression of wine and grape culture, as its wine is as old as the mankind, and its agriculture is more blooming than in any other land. In Salento, a number of factors – altitude and soil composition, sun exposure and irradiation, temperature difference between night and day and ventilation – interact with each other like in a kaleidoscope, giving rise to microclimatic and pedological conditions, which can change in the range of a few kilometers.

In these areas in the middle of the Mediterranean sun belt, grape growing has been practiced since ancient times by a multitude of peoples (Greeks, Romans, Langobards, Byzantines, Normans, Angevins and Aragoneses), until today, reaching production levels, which are among the highest in Italy. Different historical periods, marked by different cultural influences, have enriched the identity of Apulia and of its people, without breaking the 'red thread' of the history, where the 'red' can be that intense and dark of Negroamaro, or that brilliant and strong of Primitivo and Susumaniello: Apulia and Salento are – first of all – lands of red and rose wines, sometimes great and unforgettable.

The wineyards

Ancient vineyards, which – selected by the work of generations of farmers  – have found, in these lands washed by two seas, the ideal conditions to take root and become territorial varieties; and the sea plays a central role in this wine story: from those shores sailing routes to trade wine have developed, having in Brindisi harbour a formidable junction point, particularly for Rome and the Empire. Already 2000 years ago, in these regions placed in the Adriatic shores near Brindisi, the grape was grown, the wine produced and the final product was commercialized, giving rise to a very modern concept of wine chain.

The story of Visellio and Jaddico is revealing, but not isolated. A great deal of evidence from the ancient world link Salento to the wine, remembering us that the wine is one of the most salient marker of identity and culture. The past is reflected in the Apulian and Salentinian oenological reality of today, putting on different and sometimes contradictory forms; yet, nobody can understimate the ampelographic richness of this region, as well as the productive path of a number of winemakers, who – on the basis of an authentic concept of quality – have finally undertaken to redefine an appropriate profile of oenological excellence.

Undoubtedly, such new reality will contribute to remove that old and superficial idea of the Apulian wine production, as focused on large volume, high alcoholic content and cut wine, to be destined to producers of other viticultural Italian and French regions.A wrong and obsolete reading of the Apulian wine, that today is no longer confirmed by the facts: it is enough to taste the products of about fifty wineries to discover absolute high-quality wines. On the other hand, this view is probably the result of an old limit (shared with other South Italy regions): although the production quality has been strongly improved, little has been done in the field of communication and marketing, as these aspects are still considered secondary in comparison with those immediately connected to the production itself (vineyards and cellars). In other terms, it is easier to produce high quality wines than giving rise to marketing strategies to communicate this excellence.

Today Salento has become a symbol of the new Italian frontier for quality wines. The major elements of strength are two: a viticulture of ancient tradition and ideal pedoclimatic conditions. And still, the nearness of the sea tempers the effects of a climate, which sometimes is really hard. All these factors contribute to confer to the wines that perfect combination of complexity and elegance, which makes them unique expressions of a territory, now able to bear comparison with other illustrious viticultural regions, with much longer experience in the market.

The Apulian wine panorama

The Apulian wine panorama is extremely fragmented, numbering twenty-five Doc wines, as well as a deal of further denominations. The Apulian land is mostly flat, characterized by wide plateaus and low hills, that can extend towards the sea. Grape growing is practiced in a great part of the farm surface, sharing with olive growing an almost monocultural system. Still, the Apulian ampelographic richness is characterized by a wide range of indigenous varieties, selected in the course of centuries both by nature and by man’s hand.

Land of red-berry grape varieties, but also of a number of white grapes of old tradition and great value, as the White Malvasia, The Moscato Reale of  Trani, the Verdeca, the Bianco d’Alessano or the White Bombino of Daunia. Along with these less widespread varieties, other Italic varieties have been cultivated in the course of time, both red and white, as the Sangiovese and Montepulciano, Fiano and Vermentino. Also the international grape varieties are present, although not massively implanted, as it occurs in Sicily and Campania, with the Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier. Nevertheless – as already underlined – among the native varieties, the red-berry grapes represent the zenith of the Apulian and Salentinian oenology, with Negroamaro, Primitivo, Susumaniello and Black Malvasia. Some descriptive notes about these specific varieties are now offered.

Negroamaro

Negroamaro is the best known among the indigenous Apulian grape varieties, and to be more precise, in Salento. Although we have no sure information about the origin of this grape variety, it may be assumed, with a wide margin of safety, that its growing dates back to the time of the Greek colonization, between the seventh and the eighth century b.C. This theory seems to be confirmed by the name 'Negroamaro', which should neither derive (as asserted by some) from the dialectal form 'niuru maru', used by local people, nor from the fact that it has a bitterish taste; rather, it seems to descend from two different words for 'black': the form 'Nigra' (of Latin origin) joined to the form 'Mavros' (of Greek origin), together forming a compound to emphasize the intense black, which characterizes both the grape skin and the derived wine.

For over a century Negroamaro – because of its massive cultivation – has been exclusively known as a blending wine, and has been often used  to improve the Northern wines thanks to its intense colour. Only in the last twenty years, thanks to the work of a number of producers that have focused on high quality, this variety has been known as a wine of great oenological content and of superior organoleptic features. A wine of great personality, that is immediately recognizable and strongly tied to the land of Salento, of which it seems to tell colours and radiance.

The plant is very vigorous, with medium sprout and strong shoots with medium internode; it adapts well to various kinds of soil, although it prefers those calcareous and clayey and stands up well to warm and dry weather. It shows a standard sensitivity to diseases: it is more sensitive to botrytis in rainy autumns and to grape moths in unfavourable periods. It stands up quite well to frosts, and is less sensitive to oidium and to downy mildew (peronospora destructor). The traditional goblet training system (or 'bush vine' system, or 'alberello') has been placed in the last twenty years by a modern espalier training system, and the density is sometimes very close to 6000 vine stocks per hectare.

As far as the morphological side is concerned, the bunch is of medium size, cone-shaped or trunk-cone shaped, compact; grape of medium-large size with a thick pruinose skin of a violet-black colour. The pulp is juicy, sweet and with a neutral flavour. The ripening time is quite late, extending, in some hill areas, into the third decade of September, with a constant production in every form of training.

This grape variety is the base of some of the best wines in Salento, from the fresh and sapid rose wines to the powerful and magnificent red wines, both recognizable thanks to a natural elegance and softness. Negroamaro in purity shows a dark, deep ruby colour and a round and dry flavour, with a bitterish note. Treated together with Black Malvasia, it gives rise to an excellent rose wine, a mealtime wine, which is featured by a more intense and brilliant colour than that of other rose wines, with reflexes of a delicate pink shade like coral.

Primitivo

The story of the Primitivo is intertwined with the legend. A number of scholars think that the origin of this grape variety dates back to over 2000 years ago; it probably came from Dalmatia and arrived in Apulia through Illyria. According to other scholars, it should be similar to the so-called Zinfandel, a grape variety coming from Hungary and – afterwards – brought in California and Australia (such a theory seems to be supported by recent analysis of DNA). A certainty is that the Primitivo arrived in Apulia by the end of the XVII century and that the areas destined to the cultivation of this variety expanded considerably only in the XIX century, when it was implanted following the damages inflicted by the phylloxera the to the European vineyards. The name of this red-berry variety derives from its early ripening in every phase of its growing, from the sprouting time to the blossoming, from the veraison to the ripening of the grape. The Primitivo is trained in the Apulian goblet training system with 4-5 spurs; it is featured by a percentage of 20-30% of  fertile lateral shoots ('femminelle'), which are able to give a second later production. It does not stand up well to rot and spring frosts and can have flower abortion in rainy years and deep soils.  It stands up quite well to oidium and to downy mildew (peronospora destructor), but it is slightly sensitive to botrytis and prefers calcareous and clayey medium-textured soils.

As already stated above, the Primitivo is one of the few Italian varieties to have two ripening times, producing two harvestings, the first of which occurs between the end of August and the beginning of September. The second production is obtained from the do-called "racemes", which ripe later, between tha last decade of September and the first of October. The plant is characterized by a medium-sized, pentagonal leaf, with five dark green limbs and covered with a thin down on the lower side. The bunch is of medium size, long, cylindrical-cone shaped, simple, winged or double and compact. The grape is spheroidal with skin of medium thickness, of a bluish colour. The level of production remains constant and of excellent quality in the years, so that it appears necessary to restrain the abundant productions with important thinning out operations, made in pre-ripening time. The wine has a deep colour, tending towards violaceous with fragrances of cherry and plum. On the palate it is full and warm, tending to soften with ageing. Moreover, the production of the sweet liqueur-like primitivo is also possible; it has an alcoholic content not less than 16,5% vol.

Susumaniello

It is the third native grape varieties of Salento and of the countryside of Brindisi. In the viticultural tradition of this territory it was implanted together with Negroamaro and Black Malvasia. In the blend of grapes this variety was used to give to the wines colour and a better balance between acidity and sugars. Coming from near Dalmatia, its name derives from the fact that, in its young age, the plant of Susumaniello is so productive, that it can be loaded like a donkey, which in italian is named 'somarello': the name Susumaniello is derived from the dialectal expression 'susu lu somariello' meaning 'on a mule'. In the course of the years, vintage after vintage, the production of this variety has reduced drastically and the low yields did not to justify its growing: a plant of Susumaniello can produce up to 1,8-2,2 kg.

After the tenth year of life, the Susumaniello does not exceed 0,8-1 kg per stock vine. A low productivity, which, in the meantime, has led to a drastic reduction of the surface cultivated with this variety and put at risk its survival within the ampelographic richness of Apulia. Today the Susumaniello, by virtue of its so particular varietal features, gives rise to elegant, full-bodied and inimitable red wines of great structure. An 'oenological mine' which all wine-makers of Salento should discover and valorize. As far as the morphological aspect is concerned, the plant has smooth leaves of medium-large size, shining on the upper side; in the most innovative espalier system trainings there is a tendency to increase the vegetation in order to expand the foliar surface exposed to the sun and, as a consequence, the chlorophyll processings of the plant, especially in the phase of blossoming and fruit setting. The medium sized bunch is tapered-pyramid-shaped, simple, compact, with grape of medium size, characterized by a very pruinose blue skin. The grapes are very rich in sugars with a good percentage of total acidity, elevated level of anthocyanins and with a high index of extractability.

From a sanitary point of view, the variety does not show any particular problems with climatic adversities and pathogenic agents. It is grown on traditional training systems, such as the Apulian goblet system, but also the espalier system, with an implant density exceeding  4.000/5.000 vine stocks per hectare. The ripening of the grapes generally occurs around the third decade of September, producing a wine which – on visual examination – shows a dark deep ruby colour, with a very intense and vivid purple edge.

Black Malvasia of Brindisi

The numerous grape varieties named 'Malvasia' often share only the name, which is probably drawn from that of the Greek harbour of Monemvasia, from which a great deal of sought-after sweet wines left to be exported in the whole Mediterranean area. The Venetians used the name 'Malvasia' to indicate, on a first moment, these sweet wines coming from the eastern regions of the Mediterranean Sea and, afterwards, also the shops in Venice, where this drink was consumed.

The Black Malvasia of Brindisi is, with high probability, a grape variety coming from Greece and the Aegean Islands; the variety has a good strength and a medium and constant productivity. It prefers quite expanded training systems and medium-long prunings, yet it also adapts to those shorter.

The variety presents a shoot with expanded and fluffy apex. The leaf is big, pentagonal in shape, with five lobes often with dark green, smooth limbs, and with little tomentum. The medium-sized bunch is trunk-cone shaped and with not very evident wings. The spheroid grapes are of medium size, with consistent pruinose black-violet skin, fleshy pulp and medium flavour.

The ripening generally occurs in mid September. The variety generally produces red wines of an intense ruby colour, with violet reflexes, and with distinct aromatic fragrances and smells of fruit, such as pomegranate and raspberry. The wines have a good structure, with a good alcoholic level and a quite good sapidity, with a never elevated acidity. If blended with the Negroamaro and without vinasses, it can produce excellent rose wines.